Chicora Association Managing Agent
272-8700
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Managed by Chicora Association Managing Agent 272-8700 |
| Prestwick Property Owners Association, Inc. | ||
Throughout Prestwick, we have "stop" signs and "children playing" signs. You may also have noticed speed limit signs. The posted speed limit in the neighborhood is 25 mph. Please do not disregard these signs, as they are for all of our protection. We do not want any tragedies in our community.
Chicora Association Management and the Prestwick Property Owners Association would like to give a warm welcome to the following new residents of Prestwick who have moved into the community between December 2007 and February 2008. .
HOSPITALITY AMBASSADORS GREET NEW RESIDENTS If you have moved into Prestwick within the last six months, our Hospitality Ambassadors would like to welcome you to our community. Please contact Kate Jensen 843-294-9903. 
Lawn & Garden Tips for:April, May & June: I have to admit, this is the most difficult newsletter to write. There is always so much to do and so much information to give that it seems overwhelming. Please put the Clemson Extension's "Home and Garden Information Center" in your Favorites to quickly access the best resource available for all lawn and garden topics! The web site is: http://hgic.clemson.edu/ TURFGRASS: As we get into the true "Spring" of our season, our grasses will come out of dormancy and it will be time to get busy again! Make sure you have had your lawnmower tuned up and had the mower blade sharpened. Injury from a dull mower blade can extend into problems all summer! Also, remember the "1/3" rule. Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade at a time in order to reduce stress. If you have let it get long while you were out of town, raise the mower blade to its highest position, and choose a day that isn't too hot and you can water the lawn after cutting. On the subject of watering your lawn, the optimum time to water is early morning when the blades have time to dry off during the day. Watering in the evening will not allow the grass to dry as well, and will encourage most of the fungal diseases we struggle with in this area. It is very important to water infrequently and deeply, rather than giving it a "quick drink" every day or two. This will allow the water to soak deep into the soil, which will cause the roots to grow down into the soil instead of staying at the surface in a weakened condition. A rule of thumb is to see that your grass gets about 1" of water per week, either by nature or irrigation, and only watering twice a week when you are in control of the frequency! In extreme heat and drought conditions of the late summer is the only time you should consider watering more frequently, but it still needs to be a "deep watering". If you aren't sure how long it takes your irrigation system (or oscillating sprinkler) to put out 1" of water, place 5-6 small cans (like a tuna can) around your yard and watch them fill up. March is the perfect time to get your soil tested and analyzed by the Horry County Clemson Extension office. Call them at 365-6715 to find out how to take a good sample and where to deliver it for testing. AFTER you find out the needs of your soil, you will know how to fertilize your lawn effectively. We are all anxious to encourage our lawn to "green up quickly", but you don't want to stress the lawn too early. You should fertilize no sooner than 2-3 weeks after the lawn begins to turn green on its own. An easier way to remember this is to NOT fertilize until you have mowed the lawn twice. Since you should have applied your first application of preemerge weed control in February, your second application will be applied about 10 weeks later, in May. Try to avoid the packaged "Weed and Feed" products because often the timing isn't right to put both fertilizer and weed control out at the same time. You can purchase these products separately at stores such as Lesco. MULCH: As you clean up your berms, keep in mind the benefits of well-placed mulch: Mulch as needed to maintain a 2 to 3-inch layer. Keep mulch at least two to three inches away from the stems and trunks of plants. (Just Say No to "volcanoes!) ORNAMENTALS: Remember to prune your spring-flowering plants right after the blooms are finished, and to NOT prune your summer-flowering plants now! When dealing with insects or disease on your shrubs, try using an insecticidal soap or dormant oil before you move to chemicals that pollute our surface and groundwater (see end of article for more info). Consider fertilizing your shrubs and trees. The best time to fertilize is before or during budbreak in the spring when the soil temperature is above 40 degrees. Not all plants need fertilizer-use it with a purpose! It may be to help newly planted shrubs establish and "fill out" quickly in the landscape or to help mature plants recover from drought or pest injury. If your plants are getting fertilizer from your lawn applications or they are healthy and at their mature height, you shouldn't need to apply additional fertilizer. NUISANCES: This is the time for mole crickets and fire ants to become active. Go to http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic2153.htm to see how to handle mole crickets. Go to http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic2501.htm to learn about fire ant management. CONTROLS FOR ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS: SOAPS AND OILS This is an excerpt from a Clemson Extension article: "Insecticidal" soaps and oils have a number of advantages for controlling insects. They are virtually non-toxic to humans and other mammals, and are relatively safe to beneficial insects in the landscape. They control a wide range of common soft-bodied pests including aphids, mealybugs, thrips, whiteflies, mites, and scales. It is difficult for pests to develop resistance to oils and soaps. Both soaps and oils can cause damage to plants if applied when plants are water stressed, temperatures are above 90 °F, or high humidity prevents rapid drying. Some plants are sensitive to oil sprays. Read and follow the label. Since soaps and oils work on contact, an effective application must coat both the upper and lower leaf surfaces as well as stems for best results. Repeated applications may be necessary. Soaps: Insecticidal soaps damage the protective coat of soft-bodied insects causing them to dehydrate. Homemade soap recipes are not recommended because they may be more likely to cause foliage burn. Commercial insecticidal soaps are tested on plants and are less likely to cause damage. Some common product names include Safer Insecticidal Soap and M-Pede. Horticultural Oils: Oil products smother softbodied insects on contact. Oils are formulated as either summer or dormant oils. Dormant oils are heavier oils used on dormant plants to control over wintering insects (e.g., aphids, spider mites, and scales). Dormant oils will damage plants if used during the growing season. Summer oils are lighter and more refined and can be applied to both actively growing and dormant plants. Do not apply summer oils when the temperature is above 90 °F. Some readily available summer weight horticultural oils include Ortho Volck Oil Spray, Sunspray, Control Solutions Ultra Fine Oil, and Green Light Horticultural Oil. Ferti-Lome produces a Dormant Oil Spray." I don't know about you, but I need to take a nap so I'll have the energy needed to tackle the spring checklist! Hope to see you out in your yards soon. Happy gardening! Crystal Lemmons Grand Strand Master Gardeners Association |
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